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I harvested seeds of Paeonia mlokosewitschii (the lovely yellow 'Molly the Witch') on July 14. They were stlll wet and in a pod with some interesting red stuff that looked like caviar floating among the seeds. I have kept them in an open paper cup and after a few days they are no longer wet and do not seem to have shriveled. But they are not dark, like the Paeonia tenuifolia rosea seeds I collected last month. By the way these are the only 2 species of peony I grow--oh, I have the red Paeonia tenuifolia, but did not see any seeds on that one. I have several more pods of P. mlokosewitschii--what is the optimal time to collect the seeds? I live in Connecticut.
Barbara van Achterberg
Comments
Paul H. Schneider
Germinating peony seed..
Sat, 01/18/2014 - 10:12amGerminating peony seed..
In the past I've had problems germinating peony seed from the Seed Exchange. Jim Waddick gave me a tip that really helps: Plant the seed in a pot buried to the rim in a place in the garden where you won't lose it. I cover the pot with a piece of mesh cut from a sheet of metal lath( purch from Lowe's, Home Depot) which allows rain & weather to pass through but keeps out the squirrels & chipmunks. I've used clay pots with the bottom knocked out to allow ground moisture into the pot. I suppose a plastic pot with the bottom removed would be just as good.I'm sure it would help to water the pots if you encounter a dry spell. Leave the pots in the ground through a full winter & germination will occur the following spring. I have had good success with this method. I think the clay pot allows more even contact with the surrounding soil moisture and more closely imitates natural conditions.
Paul H. Schneider
Longma,
Sat, 01/18/2014 - 10:16amLongma,
Thanks for your post. I should have mentioned that a second cold period is required for the appearance of peony shoots after the germination period .
Maryanne Gryboski
During the second winter, are
Mon, 10/20/2014 - 5:44amDuring the second winter, are you keeping them moist? dry? I've had some germinate but then go to mush the second winter and I would like to prevent that.
Gordon Tingley
I would keep them barely
Sun, 11/16/2014 - 1:56pmI would keep them barely moist through the second winter.
Our greenhouse isn't heated, and relies on a pump for water from a pond. After losing a few pumps to freezing, we disconnect the pump after giving the plants one last watering in December or January (if the cold arrives late). I put pots on the dirt floor of the greenhouse, so they can get a bit of moisture wicking up from the ground. If things get really dry, I sometimes will top the pots with a bit of snow to give a little extra moisture.
The following species that were received from NARGS and SRGC seed exchanges early in 2014 have now germinated below ground: Paeonia emodi, Paeonia mloksewitshii, Paeonia obovata alba, Paeonia suffruticosa alba. Above ground growth should appear in Spring 2015.
RPavlis (not verified)
For germination I soak the
Sun, 12/21/2014 - 8:06pmFor germination I soak the seeds for a couple of days and then place then in baggies. since the seeds are large, I use Promix (peat soiless mix), or paper towel. They are kept moist. I might give them a cold treatment, but I don't think it is required. I leave them sitting on my desk. A radicle appears in 3-15 months. When it does, and it is more than 2 cm long (length does matter according to some recent studies), they go into a fridge at about 7 C. While in the cold the radicle will develop side roots and root hairs. In theory they can be left in this state for quite awhile so you can time the next growth phase, however I have had then leaf out in the fridge. Once the root has grown to a good size (not that critical) I move the baggies to normal room temps, at which point the first leave emerges. I try to time things so this happens in spring. They are potted up, and go outside for the summer.
The pictures show some bags of seeds sitting on my desk right now. They have not yet gotten a cold treatment so the radicle is just one long piece with no side branches. They are more than ready for the fridge--I am just waiting a few more weeks to time for them spring potting.
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Maryanne Gryboski
Thank you both for your input
Mon, 01/19/2015 - 6:43pmThank you both for your input.
I've just begun experimenting with baggies. You save on space and materials, you get a visual without pawing in the soil, it's an altogether easier way to do things. I appreciate your discussion on timing the move to cold so subsequent potting up comes in spring.
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