Dodecatheon dormancy: we have dry summers here, and all Dodecatheons go dormant if you don't irrigate. I grow clevelandii v. insulare, hendersonii, jeffreyi, meadia, and pulchellum. In the high mountains, jeffreyi barely has time to set seed, so it doesn't have a summer dormancy.
SW Washington state, 600 ft. altitude
Is anyone here using the high output T5 flurorescents? I've read about them lots and have cactus and succulent friends using them with great results- far more light output than regular fluoros -even c+s requiring intense light do well, plants do not have to be a couple of inches from the lights as with regular fluoros, and relatively energy efficient. More expensive to buy though! but one friend bought hers as simple hardware without the fancy reflectors you will see in aquarium or hydroponics shops, set up her own reflective apparatus and paid much much less..
west central alberta, canada; just under 1000m; record temps:min -45C/-49F;max 34C/93F; http://picasaweb.google.ca/cactuscactus http://urbanehillbillycanada.blogspot.com/
I hadn't even heard of high output T5s until a few weeks ago. I use regular T5 28w.
Lori, thanks for being thorough and consistent with your germination info. You know I am recording it ;D.And thanks for the link of Nepeta longibracteata. What a cool plant!
Rick Rodich zone 4a. Annual precipitation ~24 inches
near Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
I use the old-fashioned T12 cool white lamps because I have a lot of lamps and fixtures that are still in good shape. This is what tomatoes and peppers look like under T12s:
[attachthumb = 1]
T5s are more efficient, but T12s do a perfectly good job. The side reflectors really help with plants that need a lot of light, especially big plants like this.
A lot of people have grown cacti and succulents under T12s or the slightly more efficient T8s (which is what I have now) permanently for many years, but high output T5s are a lot better for light intensity. It depends a lot on what you are growing and for how long, how many uints you want to install etc. Contrary to what one may think, not all C+S for example actually need the most extreme light exposure, since they may grow sheltered by bushes, rocks etc in nature, but there are those plants that really do need maximum exposure (some caudiciforms for example) that just aren't easily grown under the old shoplights.Of course we're really just talking about seedlings here, and if they etiolate a bit, it can usually be rectified when they go outside.. I am more interested in better light for some of my permanent indoor plants- especially winter growing South African bulbs!
My fluorescent lights are T12's that are on for 14 hours per day on a timer. The lights themselves appear to be the same as what Gene is using... 4 foot long, 2-bulb reflectors. In my case, each bulb is 40 watts, just regular cool whites and warm whites. Right now, only 2 of these are on (overtop 2 trays of pots), but with time as more pots germinate, the rest will come into use (640 watts total).
Astragalus purshii - germ in 6 days at room temp after scarifyingRhodiola rhodantha - germ in 6 days at room tempSalvia cryptantha - germ in 20 days at room temp
Calgary, Alberta, Canada - Zone 3
-30 C to +30 C (rarely!); elevation ~1130m; annual precipitation ~40 cm
I'm trying a couple of batches of Dodecatheon pulchellum seed in warm conditions. I'll let you know what happens. See also http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=1056.0
I decided to try growing some western native US species, I'm growing them in 50/50 sand gravel with a little coco peat to hold at least a little moisture. In a window planter, in my closet under a grow light;
Silene armeriaArabis alpinaErysimum capitatumCampanula rotundifoliaLinum perenne Aquilegia caerulaEragrostis spectabilis
I'm stoked to see what comes up, these are all seeds that were labeled to not need any seed treatments prior to prop. Mostly from Everwilde, so I'm not sure if they treat them with anything before sale. I've had great luck with their seed prop advice in the past, but I feel their advice only applies to their seed. Their seed prop requirements are almost always different from other sources I read for the same species.
ClifflineGardens dot com
Fort Collins, CO zone 5b
An urge to clean out my refrigerator prompted me to sow just about every seed I'd saved up from years past and all the new ones. As a result, I have about 350 seed pots holding an odd assortment of seeds. Everything went out in the weather with no special treatment.
We've been stuck at 40 degrees most days and nights for almost a month now, so I was surprised to see things starting up already. Sowed in December, 2012, and germinating in January: Arabis aculeolata, Balsamorhiza rosea, Calandrinia umbellata, Codonopsis pilosula, Delphinium andersonii, Dodecatheon clevelandii ssp. insulare, Primula munroi, Primula waltonii, Saussurea sp., and Symphyandra armena. The dodecatheon was a Ron Ratko collection in 2003, the arabis in 2005, and the balsamorhiza in 2006.
Also germinating but from a January 20012 sowing are Cyclamen graecum anatolicum, Eranthis pinnatifida, and Lilium humboldtii var. ocellatum.
Heaven help me when it's time to pot things on or plant them out. Many will go to our local NARGS chapter's plant sales (thank goodness). Seed growing is an addiction for me!
Bellevue, Washington Zone 7-8
That's lots of pots, Claire! I need to do something similar to get caught up..
Everwild is new to me, looks like fun to go through :)